CASTEL SANT’ANGELO, ROMA

You may not be able to see the Sistine Chapel during the papal conclave, but you can visit this former pope’s residence, and it’s a whole lot more fun than being shushed by Vatican guards. The castle is still property of the Vatican, and it is connected to it via a cool crenulated wall. Originally Emperor Hadrian’s tomb, this monolithic structure had many purposes over the centuries, including papal fortress, where the pope could escape to when under attack.

During the Sack of Rome, in 1527, Pope Clement VII (de’ Medici) put the fortress to use, escaping from the Vatican to the safety of the castle, by running down the secret corridor, or Passetto di Borgo, the battlement wall connecting the two.

Exploring the many rooms, terraces, arms, and treasures inside the castle is a blast, but wandering around its park, formerly the moat, is a joy of its own. Grass, benches, and a children’s playground make it fun for all ages. Bring a soccer ball or a picnic and enjoy some much appreciated down time in the Roman sun.

Kids love Rome in the Rain!

November in Rome brings a variety of weather. Sunny days in the 70′s are the best of it, but be prepared for rain, too! Armed with rubber boots and raincoats, everyone will love Rome in the rain. Get to the Pantheon to watch the rain fall from its circular opening (occulus) in the ceiling; older kids can go on a photo safari – Rome looks great in the rain, with its glossy streets and roiling skies; younger kids can simply splash around wherever they find opportunity.  Going indoors, the best museum for rain is the Capitoline Museum, where you can head to the basement to find the Tabularium. There you can watch the rain fall over the Forum and ancient Rome from an arched portico, safely covered from the deluge, on your ancient porch.

Apple iBooks now sells “Rome with Kids” for iPad and iPhones!

We are thrilled by the quality of the Apple e-book version, and we know readers will appreciate having RWK at their fingertips — without weighing them down a bit, or is that a byte?

High tech readers say they like to use the printed RWK for research, marking, and planning, then tour with the e-book for all of it’s bang without the bulk. Following each chapter’s Walking Tour has never been easier! The RWK maps, restaurants, and guidance are right on your phone (or ipad).

Let us know how you’ve used the new e-book or share a photo of your family in Rome, and we’ll post it on the “PHOTOS and NOTES” page, coming soon!  Send to info@romewithkids.com.

Many have been asking for an e-book version of RWK, and we’re pleased to announce that it’s finally here. Now you can tour an ancient civilization the 21st Century way!

RWK  hits the APPLE iBookstore in the next few weeks.  The e-book format is a great for our traveling readers, but it also makes the guide more readily available for those of you living outside the U.S.

An update on the printed edition: RWK is out of stock nearly everywhere EXCEPT from the Romewithkids.com Web site. The new edition will be rolling off the press around the end of July.

Piazza Navona

The Holiday Season has arrived in Rome and the piazzas are popping with sparkle and spirit.


Piazza Navona transforms into a wonderland of a holiday market, and kids love it! Like a carnival, loads of stalls are set up, selling everything from nativity sets with witches (the Roman christmas legend features the Befana) to traditional roasted pork sandwiches (porchetta). There are rides for little ones and carnival games for older kids — but be careful, many times the prize can be a bottle of Spumante!


Every year, Hanukkah is celebrated with the lighting of candles on a gigantic menorah in Piazza Barberini.

Christmas Navona

One of my favorite things to do during the season is to see how many nativity sets I can find. Romans call them  presepii, and they are everywhere. Some of the most spectacular:

• St. Peter’s Basilica has a gigantic, life-sized display that only gets fully revealed on Christmas Day. Each year, a different nation gets the honor of donating the square’s tree.
• S. Maria Maggiore holds an Arnolfo di Cambrio marble presepio thought to be the oldest in Italy (1289AD).
• The Spanish Steps crib features an 18th century scene complete with a miniaturePasquino statue.
• SS. Cosma e Damiano, by the forum, has a year-round room-sized scene from Naples (17th century), which features hundreds of figures, replicas of the ruins, and moving fishmongers and blacksmiths.
• Termini train station, on via Giolitti, has a large set with miniature sheep and a knee-high Arch of Janus, making it the most utterly Roman presepio.

Rome even has a museum dedicated to the art of nativity sets. It’s called Museo Presepio (by appointment only).  And each year, the Piazza del Popolo shows a collection of over 200 presepii in the Sale di Bramante (centopresepi.it). Happy hunting!

The friendly Christmas Witch — lots of 'em.

Running footloose in the empty Forum is one of the many joys of visiting Rome in the Fall. October is magical. The weather is lovely, requiring a light jacket at most, and there is only a hint of the colder November rains, but it’s more than that. You have the luxury of space and peace. With or without kids, perambulating the piazzas and parks of Rome should evoke wonder and awe. Sights like the Palatine Hill, the Forums, and many piazzas are vast, and the architectural wonder they hold is often lost when they are crammed with summer’s throngs.

If you’re unbound by school calendars, consider visiting Rome in late Sept/early Oct, after the blazing heat of summer has faded, or try April/early May, before the high season ramps up. There is no real off-season for a city as large and popular as Roma, but these choice windows are in “shoulder” seasons. They offer more tranquil touring, a break on prices and crowds, and higher chance of pleasant weather than other off-season periods.
Spend some time alone with ancient Rome, contemplating the lives of those citizens, artists, emperors and kings that left such marvels in their wake.

Did you know ancient sculptures were often vibrantly colored? The all-white marble antiques we see today have just lost their colors over the centuries. Color really brought them to life, and the visual impact of rich hues appeals to children and makes it easier to understand what’s going on in bas relief scenes, like those of the Ara Pacis. Some Romans even adorned their busts and statues with jewelry and colored, glass eyes.

Kids will really appreciate this, because, let’s face it, it’s pretty cool to see a monument colored by a sophisticated light show. And having something to do at night is a welcome change from touring by day. RWK suggested you have dinner in the nearby Spanish Steps area, then walk over to the small museum. The quick trip will give you a big bang for your buck: happy, rested and fed children will delight in walking (sans beating sun) to a mini-light show. And since it only takes a few minute to visit, no-one will have a chance to become tired or bored! You’ll end the night on a positive note.
Now until September 8, you can see Augustus’ ancient Ara Pacis (Altar of Peace) in full color, every Wednesday night, from 9pm to midnight.
The Ara Pacis is easy to find, on the bank of the river, west of the main street called Via Del Corso.
Tickets are 8 euro per person; 6 euro for kids under 8 years of age.

The Castle of the Angel is always a huge hit with kids and a place of mystery and intrigue for everyone. It’s even more exciting now that the Passetto di Borgo is open for summer hours. This covered passageway connects the castle to the Vatican, several blocks away.
Probably the coolest museum in Rome for kids, the labyrinthine castle was originally built as a humongous mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian (135 AD). Over the centuries, the imperial resting place has served as a fortress, prison, and papal safe house, which is why it was transformed into a palace by artists and architects such as Michelangelo.
During the 1527 Sack of Rome, Pope Clement VII put it to its purpose, scampering across the passageway to safety. With such a checkered past, it’s no wonder it was featured in the movie Angels and Demons.
This summer, from July 16 to September 4th, visitors can have a rare glimpse into the passageway by booking a guided tour: Phone 39-06-32-810.

The museum, along with its 58 splendid rooms, ramps, ramparts, cannon, and terraces is open everyday, except Mondays. The special tour of the Passetto diBorgo runs 10:30-11:30am, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, and 5:30-6:30pm Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday.
Today, the castle’s moat is a wonderful park with green spaces and some play equipment for younger children, and if you’re hungry, you can grab a bite to eat at the museum’s charming terrace cafe. RWK recommends winding your way through the castle to the very tip top, where you can see its angel up close and enjoy a sweeping view over Rome- Fantastico!

Rome is full of ancient ruins, monuments, and museums, but did you know it has lots of secret paths, gardens, and gorgeous views? Take a few hours to unwind with this off-the-beaten-track walk through one of Rome’s prettiest, and oldest, neighborhoods.

Peaceful cobbled paths, secret gardens, and beautiful vistas will revitalize, but there’s plenty of sightseeing, too — that’s the RWK way! Pack a picnic and head to the Piazza Bocca della Verità, where you can start your journey by sticking your hand in the “Mouth of Truth,” an ancient sewer cover on the portico of the church. Answer a question with your hand in the mouth, but tell the truth. It “bites” liars!

If you make it past the Mouth of Truth, find the secret path that leads you right up the Aventine Hill. It’s called Clivo d. Rocca Savello (entrance pictured above). Just head south from the piazza, cross the large Via Cerchi, and look for the foot path on your left. Follow it all the way to the top (about a six minute walk), and turn right to walk along the street. Immediately on the right, you’ll find another treasure: the famous Orange Garden, called Parco di Savello.

This is a perfect place for a picnic, a game of tag, running around, or simply enjoying some down time, taking in the lush surroundings and pleasing scent of oranges.
Before you leave, make sure you walk to the edge of the hill for a view that stretches all the way to the St. Peter’s basilica–and beyond. So far, you’ve seen a mysterious, ancient stone face, climbed up an enchanted, secret path, and found your way to the little orange garden and its vista, but you’ve got one more treasure to hunt for: a keyhole!

A KEYHOLE? WHAT’S THE BIG DEAL!

This one graces a door of the Knights of Malta, one of the world’s smallest independent states. Sneak a peek to see Michelangelo’s dome, perfectly framed by immaculate gardens. Pretty cool–so is looking over three countries at once: Malta, the Vatican, and Italy.